Fungus-resistant grape varieties are one of today’s most talked-about topics within the Austrian wine industry. They support sustainability and awaken people’s curiosity. Varieties such as Muscaris and Blütenmuskateller are already household names among winegrowers, but other new cultivars are just around the corner.
PIWI – DEFINITION AND ETYMOLOGY
IT’S ALL IN THE NAME!
PIWI is the German abbreviation for fungus-resistant grape varieties (pilzwiderstandsfähige Rebsorten; Pilz = fungus, widerstandsfähig = resistant). PIWIs are partially resistant grape varieties that are the result of methodical crossings and breeding. PIWI grape varieties display a high level of resistance to at least one fungal disease, such as Botrytis cinerea, downy mildew and powdery mildew.
The German abbreviation for these fungus-resistant varieties of grape is also well-recognised outside German-speaking regions. The abbreviation was first used by PIWI International, founded in 1988, and has now caught on around the world as a result of its catchy sounding name. Some experts like to interpret PIWI as the abbreviation for “pioneering wines” – a term that says all about these special varieties.
HISTORY
A VIRTUE BORN OUT OF NECESSITY
Long before the term PIWI was even invented, fungal resistance played a key role within the wine-growing industry. In the mid-19th century, as a result of the phylloxera epidemic, European winegrowers began experimenting with hybrid grape varieties. These were crossings between American and European varieties with the aim of building resistance to phylloxera, progressing later to develop resistance to fungal diseases. These early crossings displayed attributes from both parent plants, resulting in a foxy aroma that was less than desirable in Europe. “Foxy” is the term used to describe the smell of fox or cat urine – as well as wet fur – which is typical of certain American grape varieties. It wasn’t until the 1970s that these characteristics could be eliminated by further breeding. The varieties that were resulted from this ongoing initiative were typically European in character and marked the beginning of the modern era of PIWI crossings.
THE BENEFITS FOR VITICULTURE
LESS IS MORE!
- One key advantage of PIWI varieties for winegrowers is the significantly reduced need to apply plant protection products in the vineyard. The number of times PIWI vineyards in Austria need to be sprayed can be reduced by two-thirds.* This not only supports an ecological, sustainable approach towards the use of natural resources, but also reduces costs in terms of machinery and personnel. People and tractors need to make less trips through the vineyard thus preserving their own health, as well as that of the soil.
- Lower costs for plant protection
- Less time- and labour-intensive
- Lower carbon emissions due to fewer tractor trips
- Less soil compaction due to fewer tractor trips
*PIWI Rebsortenanbau in Österreich, (Growing PIWI grape varieties in Austria) Wolfgang Renner, inObstbau und Weinbau (Pomiculture and Viticulture) 09/2022, page 30.
PIWI (fungus-resistant) grape varieties are new cultivars that display partial resistance against one or more fungal diseases. The Kobatl winery in Vulkanland Steiermark grows PIWI varieties on 100% of its vineyards. As a result, not only are they able to reduce the amount of plant protection products used, but the reduction in tractor use also helps to keep the soil healthier.
DISTRIBUTION IN AUSTRIA
PIWI Qualitätswein & PIWI varietal wine
Variety | Area in Austria in ha | Area in Austria in % |
---|---|---|
Roesler | 283.78 | 0.64% |
Blütenmuskateller | 123.72 | 0.28% |
Muscaris | 96.88 | 0.22% |
Donauriesling | 80.80 | 0.18% |
Souvignier Gris | 75.62 | 0.17% |
Donauveltliner | 62.35 | 0.14% |
Rathay | 54.57 | 0.12% |
Cabernet Blanc | 24.33 | 0.06% |
Cabernet Jura | 17.84 | 0.04% |
Pinot Nova | 17.60 | 0.04% |
Bronner | 16.75 | 0.04% |
Solaris | 11.53 | 0.03% |
Johanniter | 9.35 | 0.02% |
Regent | 7.92 | 0.02% |
Total | 883.03 | 2.00% |
Source: Calculation by Austrian Wine based on figures from the Federal Ministry of Agriculture/IACS (as at 03 July 2024). Moving annual total (MAT) from July 2023 to July 2024
PIWI vines are grown in all of the wine-producing federal states of Austria. PIWI varieties are grown on 883 ha of land, representing 2.0% of Austria’s total area under vine. In Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), 1.6% (414 ha) of vineyards are planted with PIWI grapes. In Burgenland, the share is 2.1% (243 ha), while a total of 3.3% of Steiermark’s (Styria) area under vine (170 ha) is dedicated to these varieties. The remaining 56 ha are spread between the other Austrian states.
However, a clear trend has emerged. The smaller a state’s wine-growing industry, the higher the demand for PIWI varieties. In traditional wine-growing regions with a history of viticulture dating back hundreds of years, growers continue cultivating the existing varieties. After all, vineyards are planted to last for several decades. On the other hand, regions that are planting new vineyards obviously have more room for manoeuvre. Experimenting with growing PIWI varieties is seemingly easier here – not to mention driven by the curiosity of winemakers. It is not surprising, therefore, that Tirol (Tyrol) has the highest share of PIWI vines with 54%, followed by Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) with 25%.
The Austrian wine-growing area is divided climatically into an arid (dry) zone in the north and a humid (damp) zone in the south. In the arid regions – Niederösterreich, Wien (Vienna), and northern and central Burgenland – annual precipitation is between 300 and 700 mm. Southern Burgenland and Steiermark, by contrast, have to cope with almost twice as much, with annual precipitation averaging 800–1,200 mm. As moisture increases, so, too, does the risk of fungal diseases. In Steiermark, however, this is not the only challenge that winemakers face. The steep vineyards typical of this region also complicate the application of plant protection products and increase the risk of falls and other accidents when working on the vines. This specifically explains why PIWI varieties, which require less spraying with plant protection products, are more commonplace in Steiermark.
PIWI QUALITÄTSWEIN IN AUSTRIA
AND ITS AROMA PROFILE
The following PIWI varieties are permitted for the Production of Austrian Qualitätswein:
Blütenmuskateller
124 ha
similar to Muskateller
Two-thirds of Blütenmustakteller vines are grown in Niederösterreich. As the name suggests, this fragrant variety shares similarities with the well-known member of the Muscat family, Gelber Muskateller. As far as flavour is concerned, however, this PIWI variety is more pronounced and full-bodied. The high sugar level of this variety is particularly beneficial for the production of sweet wines. When it comes to food pairing, Blütenmuskateller is particularly good as an aperitif at the start of a meal, or as a sweet wine with cheese at the end.
Muscaris
97 ha
similar to Muskateller
More than half the area under Muscaris is located in the humid wine-growing regions of Steiermark. In terms of aromatics, Muscaris is similar to Blütenmuskateller, comparing well to members of the Muscat family. However, Muscaris has an impressively crisp citrus acidity, making it particularly suitable for the production of Sekt.
Souvignier Gris
76 ha
similar to Pinot Gris
Around 60% of Souvignier Gris vines are grown in Steiermark. Evocative of the Pinot varieties, this aromatic white wine is similar to the Ruländer, or Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), variety grown in Steiermark. With a dense body, Souvignier Gris pairs particularly well with game and aromatic roast vegetables.
Donauriesling
81 ha
similar to Rheinriesling
This PIWI grape variety is primarily grown in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and has a flavour similar to a Rhine Riesling. Donauriesling displays an impressively fresh and elegant acidity, as well as fine notes of citrus, accompanied by a subtle minerality. Thanks to its vibrant aromatic profile, it pairs particularly well with fish dishes and light starters, but it can also be enjoyed on its own. In warmer years, it also develops a profound ripeness with light, exotic notes that round out its profile.
Donauveltliner
62 ha
similar to Grünen Veltliner
Donauveltliner, a PIWI alternative to Grüner Veltliner, exhibits the characteristic spiciness and peppery notes that have made the latter so popular. It is fuller-bodied than Grüner Veltliner, yet displays similar aromas of green apples and white pepper. Donauveltliner is primarily cultivated in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and is a perfect pairing partner for traditional Austrian dishes such as Wiener Schnitzel and hearty stews. Its structure and longevity mean that both restaurateurs and lovers of mature wines can appreciate the vintage variation of Donauveltliner.
Roesler
284 ha
similar to Blaufränkisch
Roesler, the most prevalent PIWI red wine variety in Austria, was bred in Klosterneuburg and has been approved for the production of Qualitätswein since 2000. Burgenland and Niederösterreich have the largest areas under this particular type of vine. Roesler’s dark red colour and pronounced aromas of forest fruits and blackberries make this grape a popular choice for cuvée blends, although it also makes a splendid monovarietal wine when vinified and matured in wooden casks. As an accompaniment to food, a full-bodied Roesler pairs perfectly with rich dishes, similarly to a matured Blaufränkisch.
Ráthay
55 ha
similar to Blaufränkisch
Like Roesler, Ráthay was bred in the viticulture school at Klosterneuburg. The intensely coloured, full-bodied and tannin-rich red wine is often used in cuvée blends.
PIWI VARIETAL WINES IN AUSTRIA
Austria recognises seven PIWI varieties as varietal wines (wines that have no protected designation of origin or geographic indication but lists the grape varieties or vintage on the label).
Cabernet Blanc
24 ha
similar to Sauvignon Blanc
Bronner
17 ha
similar to Pinot Blanc
Johanniter
9 ha
similar to Riesling
Solaris*
12 ha
similar to Muskat
* nur im Bergland (Oberösterreich, Salzburg, Kärnten, Tirol, Vorarlberg) als Rebsortenwein zugelassen
Cabernet Jura
18 ha
similar to Cabernet Sauvignon
Pinot Nova
18 ha
similar to Sankt Laurent
Regent
8 ha
similar to Cabernet Sauvignon
FORECASTS
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR PIWI VARIETIES IN AUSTRIA?
The “Farm-to-Fork” strategy is part of the European Green Deal. One of the objectives of this strategy is to improve the sustainability of Europe’s agricultural and food systems on a number of different levels. This includes the goal to reduce the amount of chemical products sprayed onto crops. The cultivation of PIWI varieties can help Austria achieve this.
Besides PIWI varieties bringing numerous benefits to the vineyard as a result of their partial resistance, they also pose a threat that resistance will be circumvented. A fungus that is not kept properly under control will continuously change its strategy. This is why PIWI grape varieties still need a certain amount of plant protection. One promising aspect is that resistance increases with the release of each new PIWI variety. The earlier PIWI varieties were monoresistant – in other words, they were only resistant to one type of fungus. New PIWIs have often been bred with two mechanisms for making them resistant to different fungal infections.
Producers of PIWI varieties are attracting an ever-growing number of wine producers. At the moment, PIWIs are grown on 2.0% (883 ha) of Austria’s area under vine, compared to 1.5% in 2021. Experts forecast slow yet continuous growth in the distribution of PIWI grape varieties in Austria and estimate that around 5% of the country’s area under vine will be planted with these varieties by 2032. It is expected that PIWI cultivars will gradually gain recognition and be able to enjoy a peaceful co-existence in the marketplace alongside Austria’s domestic and traditional grape varieties.
ANNEX
Legal regulations
The approval of grape varieties, including the approval of PIWI varieties, is legally regulated at two levels of jurisdiction in Austria. The first regulates the cultivation of the vines, and the second, how the wine is sold on the market.
The cultivation of PIWI varieties is determined at a federal level. Which varieties are allowed to be planted in each of the six wine-growing federal states (Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland, Steiermark (Styria), Wien (Vienna), Kärnten (Carinthia) and Oberösterreich (Upper Austria)) is regulated by the wine law of the corresponding state. The independence of each federal state explains the differences in approach with regard to the approval of grape varieties and the range of PIWI varieties that are allowed to be planted.
The way wine is sold on the market is governed by the Austrian Wine Law. This law, which applies to all federal states, regulates the designation with which PIWI wines may be labelled. The top category of wines are labelled as “Qualitätswein” and include seven permitted PIWI grape varieties in Austria. These may be labelled with the grape variety, vintage and origin (e.g. “Steiermark”). The second category, labelled as “Rebsortenwein” (varietal wine), includes seven PIWI grape varieties. They may also be labelled with the name of the variety and vintage, together with “Austria” or “EU” as designations of origin. The third and lowest category is labelled as “Wein” (wine) and includes around 50 different PIWI varieties that may be sold without designation of variety, vintage or origin.